It should just be a little though. It only overflows for a few seconds, then stops, right? As the engine cools while parking the car overnight, the coolant in the overflow tank gets sucked back into the top of the radiator.
And as this happens it fills the radiator right to the brim. More likely to happen in certain situations I expect, depends on the temp of the coolant in the radiator, and if the car is parked on a slope or not. If still concerned, you could do a quick check for a head gasket problem. Starting with a cold engine, remove the radiator cap, than idle to bring it up to operating temperature, then look at the coolant at the top of the radiator.
See any bubbles coming up? Rev the engine to or so, check for bubbles again. No bubbles, unlikely to have a head gasket problem. The radiator is under high heat and pressure. Attempting to open a hot radiator will cause hot steam and coolant to spray out and is very likely to burn you. Before you get too deep into the diagnostics, double check that the pressure indicated on the radiator cap matches the cooling system pressure specified by the manufacturer.
You can find this information in a repair manual, factory service manual, or online. Visually inspect that cap to make sure the spring moves freely and there is no debris or corrosion under the cap. If you have a radiator pressure tester, then you can inspect the cooling system on your own.
This may help you find leaks or determine if the radiator cap has gone bad. You may also be able to rent this tester from your local auto parts store. To begin, pop open the hood and find the radiator. Now remove the radiator cap by pushing it down first and then twisting it counter-clockwise. Keep screwing until you cannot screw it anymore.
You can also look it up on the internet as well. The pressure tester should now be sealed against the radiator. If it is not, you may not be using the correct adapter for your specific radiator.
Using the pump handle, start pumping the tester until you reach the pressure indicated on your radiator cap. See if the gauge can store the pressure.
See if you notice any external coolant leaks while the system is pressurized, as they will be easier to find this way. Any leaking components will need to be replaced. It may be a good idea to have a pan or bucket handy to catch any that overflows.
Top up any coolant that was lost , and clean up any coolant that has spilled onto the ground. Radiator dries up every few kilometers. Radiator cap suspected.
What is the right radiator cap? Any auto parts store or dealership will be able to tell you which cap you need. My Buick Le Sabre consistently loses coolant. Car runs at degrees. On Vent, you can get slight amount of warmth on passenger side.
Driver side cold. Need to figure out where the leak is coming from. Most common areas would be the radiator cap, a radiator hose, the radiator itself, or the thermostat. Worst case is a leaky head gasket. My radiator blew. Replace it with a new one plus new thermostat. Started 2.
Please advise. Probably a blown head gasket. If you are getting P codes for misfire thats likely why. Combustion gases are being forced through a head gasket leak into your cooling system which is why it over-pressurizes the system and the valve lets go at 16 PSI to save your hoses. Hi, my 94 honda accord just blew the cap off going down the interstate. So what caused this?
Do I have a bad radiator cap or is my radiator going bad? Need to know if I put water in it can I still drive it home? Hi Kevin I opened my radiated on the weekend so I filled back up coolant vx commodore. I have a chevy cavalier. I replaced the thermostat my car started to run hot finally got all air from line and it idles and drives When I turn the key off antifreeze goes out the recovery tank over flow hose.
Can any one please tell me why?? Happy New Year. Appreciate your work in helping us with a good article and post. Radiator began leaking last summer. Had it replaced. Come winter, I found little heat coming into the cabin. Have refilled the radiator with air removal via the air bleed valve, have replaced the thermostat and the radiator cap but the unusual problem remains that engine temp takes a long time to get to the mid normal , then at highway speeds the temp actually begins to drop towards the quarter mark.
Will get some heat into the cabin after like 30 mins of driving. In street driving the radiator fan cycles on and off as normal. Now, after a few weeks the CEL has come on with a code of P Thoughts, please? Thanks in advance. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Partially drain cooling system below level of ECT Sensor. Support engine from below with a jack stand and piece of wood Remove upper torque strut. One 18mm and two 15mm and wiggle the mount out Disconnect ECT sensor electrical connector.
Remove ECT sensor. To install: Install ECT sensor. Torque sensor to inch lbs. Reconnect ECT sensor electrical connector. Install upper torque strut. Fill cooling system. Connect negative battery cable. Then, while looking for the intake air temp sensor I discovered that the long black thick goose-neck hose that goes from the top of the air filter box to the turbo air intake was totally rotten at the bottom neck and was almost separated at that point.
Heat around the engine seems to be enough to disintegrate the material of these hoses. Need advice. I was driving my honda accord down road and saw steam. It was a upper radiator hose with a tear in it. The heater went out. Now I see steam coming up. What would cause the hose to tear like this?
I replaced the radiator, the cap and hose about 2 years old. To prevent the tank from overflowing, the radiator cap should normally release a little pressure from the system. A faulty cap will not release the pressure from the system, leading the reservoir overflowing.
Steam is never a good sign, and indicates there is some serious overheating somewhere in the engine, which will require mechanical inspection, regardless of whether or not the cap is the culprit.
If your radiator cap is failing, this can even lead to problems within the system that put enormous strain on the actual structure of the pipes. This can cause the pipe to rupture, creating a small hole in the structure of the pipe, which will spray out liquid when your car is up and running. The hole may even seal up when the car is cold.
Both are signs you need to check the cap as your first port of call. If the cap is unable to regulate the flow of air into the coolant system, then pockets of air can permeate the heater core, thermostat and radiator hoses. The visible signs of this issue will be pipes appearing cracked on the outer sheath as they struggle to contain the pressure and the engine overheating.
Because coolant is designed as we mentioned to suck the residual heat out of the moving parts, if this is not functioning correctly then the internal workings will get hot, fast. The first sign of coolant system issues will be a rise in the temperature gauge on your dashboard. You may notice that your vehicle is producing steam, smoke or evening burning. This could lead to your engine stopping, leaving you stranded or worse still, a larger engine failure.
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